Bilberry sewing details - part 4 - side seams and sleeve cuffs

This is the final post in my four-part series showing sewing details from the Bilberry Top pattern. If this is your first time landing here — these posts highlight selected steps using photos and tips to support the illustrated instructions in the PDF pattern.

In this post, we’ll take a closer look at the side seams and sleeve cuff making!

This step is unique to the D-cup version.

Start by sewing together the front and back pieces to the side pieces. The neck facing will also be sewn into this seam so it stays properly in place when wearing.

It can be a bit tricky to get the shoulder seams to align — it’s easy for them to shift when you sew over so many layers, even if you pin them properly. It helps to hand-baste this part first, or sew a few stitches on a regular sewing machine to keep them in place. And don’t worry — nobody’s going to notice if the seams aren't perfectly aligned...

I always try to start from the same point on both sides, so you sew these seams in the same direction. Hopefully, your fabric won’t be stretched out when sewn, but if it is, it will be less noticeable if both sides are stretched in the same direction. Otherwise, it might look or feel slightly twisted. Usually, the seam will recover properly if you press it with steam from the inside.

For the D-cup, you can (if you want) hand-stitch the top edge of the neck facing to the shoulder seam. It’s not always necessary — usually, it stays in place pretty well anyway.

For the B-cup, you can hand-stitch or use a regular sewing machine to secure the top edge of the neck facing to the shoulder seam to keep it in place.

The following steps will be the same on both the B- and D-cup versions.

Before sewing the side seams together, I always fold up the bottom hem and pre-press it. It’s so much easier to press the hem when the garment is flat on the ironing board. The pleat at the front is then opened up, since it should be hemmed open/flat.

When sewing the side seam, there is a fairly steep curve under the armhole. When using an overlocker, this isn’t a problem since the seam allowance is very narrow. But if you sew with a regular sewing machine, drag lines might appear at the curve when the garment is turned right side out. This can be improved by trimming down the seam allowance slightly.

Adding a cuff to a sleeve opening is a very easy and convenient method for jersey fabric. Hemming with a twin needle can, depending on the fabric, be a bit tricky — so adding a cuff is an easier option.

There are two methods of sewing the cuffs together: either with an overlocker (and pressing the seam allowance in opposite directions at the center to spread out the bulk), or using a narrow zigzag and pressing the seam allowance open. Even a straight stitch with a shorter stitch length works fine in this case, since it’s such a short seam and won’t really be pulled. My preferred method is the straight stitch with the seam allowance pressed open — it adds the least amount of bulk.

The sleeve cuff is slightly shorter than the sleeve opening. I recommend pinning it inside the sleeve opening — this way is just easier to sew.

I always place the cuff seam at the bottom, so it won’t be visible when wearing.

After sewing, just fold out the cuff and press it.

Now you’re almost done with the top — just the hemming is left! If you want tips and tricks for hemming knitted fabric, you can watch or listen to our podcast episodes no. 43 and 45. You can also find several blog posts about it that Johanna has written at The Last Stitch. Here's a link to posts on hemming with a twin needle and hemming with a coverstitch!

If there is anything else you want me to show, just reach out and I'll try to arrange it! If you want to share your beautiful make on Instagram, I’d love to see it at #bilberrytop so I can cheer you on!!