Bilberry top - hacks and extra tips

I love hacking or adjusting a pattern — you can make it unique and perfectly suited to you in both style and fit.

Here are some hacks and tips for what you can do!

Fixating the neckline:

Does the open neckline not lay flat? Depending on the fabric, the open neckline point might start to stand out.

This is easily fixed with a few hand-sewn stitches or tucks — just sew by hand from underneath the collar point to attach it to the bodice.

Pleat hacks:

• If the pleat is standing out too much or looks odd when wearing, you can try pressing it open so it drapes more naturally.

• You can also “sew it down” so it’s secured. Either sew only the inner layers, or sew through all three layers along the hem stitch.

  
  

• You can remove the pleat width at the bottom. This can even be done after hemming. Pin it first to see if you like the look. If so, you can sew it to remove the extra width at the bottom while keeping the pleat at the chest intact. The new seam line will be slanted.

• A bit more advanced: you can remove the pleat completely below the bust directly on the pattern. Then sew the front seams together up to the pleat marking. This seam is best sewn on a regular sewing machine since it requires a sharp turn or stop at the pleat placement — something overlockers can’t do. You can overlock the edge afterwards if you like (as far as possible). Then fold in the neckline facings and topstitch the pleat.

• Lengthen the bodice into a tunic or dress:

A super easy and quick hack is to turn the top into a dress or tunic — just lengthen the pieces!

I usually make the side seam slightly wider so the side “continues” in its angle. This gives the side a nice shape and makes it slightly wider compared to the hip width.

Do you have any hacks you want to share? I'd love to see it at Instagram, make sure to tag me @hazelhenpatterns and use the #bilberrytop so I can cheer you on!!