What's the difference between a petite-adjustment on a sleeve and changing the design to make a sleeve length shorter? It might look similar, but there are some differences.

Petite and tall adjustment on a sleeve pattern
When you do a petite-adjustment, you adjust the fit of the pattern to suit your arm length, but you keep the design idea. So, if you have a full sleeve length, you adapt it according to your arm length. The easiest way to do this is to fold or cut away the extra length at approximately the middle of the sleeve, we show you in our book, Fit for Knits. Then you draw new side seam lines, so they are smooth. This way, you have kept the sleeve opening width intact, you just "moved it up" so it will be placed correctly on your body.

If you want to make a tall-adjustment on your sleeve, you slash open at approx. the middle, add the wanted length and draw new side seam lines. The sleeve opening width is kept the same.

How to update the length on a sleeve pattern
If you want to do a new design on your sleeve, let's say a 3/4 sleeve length or a short sleeve, you draw a new line where you want the sleeve end to be. Now the sleeve opening will be bigger, which is correct since your arm is also wider at that place.The easiest way to decide the new length is to measure on yourself, from the outer shoulder point to where you want the sleeve to end. If you already have a garment that you like the sleeve length on, you can just measure that length.

Then you add a mark on the pattern and drew a new bottom line. I always draw the bottom lines on sleeves slightly curved, then it looks straight when wearing and the inseam will have a smooth transition. And finally you add on the hem width, I usually make it 2-3cm wide.

The value of a great base pattern
Having a great base pattern is so valuable! With a little pattern making knowledge you can create your own designs and don't have to rely on finding that exact pattern, you can make it yourself instead! I've used my pattern Hazelhen Tee as a base when I made these t-shirts. I’ve updated the sleeve lengths and also the size of the neckline. This t-shirt pattern comes in both B- and D-cup in all sizes (EUR 32-56 and US 0-24). The D-cup has a bust dart, which will help a lot to remove those draglines that can appear at the bust.

And as a pattern designer, I really encourage you to both do fit adjustments to your patterns and also do design changes. If you sew a garment, you have all the possibilities to make it your own. It's so fun to see you being creative with the patterns! Do you want a tutorial of any other design adjustments? Just let me know in a comment or send me a DM at Instagram!
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Happy sewing!
Malena
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